Seasonal Comfort Food
Thierry Tomasin’s intimate all day refuge offers good food making it hard for you to drag yourself away from the table
Review by Marion Graham
Angelus is one of London’s hidden gems, a former 19th Century pub nestled in a quiet area of Lancaster Gate this brasserie de luxe offers an intimate yet informal dining experience next to Hyde Park. Owned by Thierry Tomasin, former Chairman Sommelier of Britain and one of the first sommelier’s to become a restaurateur.
The venue exudes old world charm, emphasised with art nouveau flourishes throughout. Angelus prides itself on being an all day and evening refuge, providing anything from gourmet breakfasts or mid-morning snacks, through to canapés, lunch or dinner - something that can be seen with the variation in clientele throughout the day.
Head Chef Pierre Needham is known for his modern French brasserie cuisine, perfect for any time of day. Once found, it is difficult to leave. The menu boasts contemporary twists on French classics and the set lunch menu with two courses for £22 or three courses for £27 is the perfect way to spend a lunchtime this Christmas.
To start with, a rich cream of celeriac soup with deep fried sage and truffle oil is perfect for a cold winter’s day, while a scrumptious dish of pink barbary duck breast, gizzard croquette, clementine and pickled Enoki makes a great seasonal alternative.
For main, succulent hand wrapped Norfolk bronze turkey parcels, goose fat roasted potatoes, sautéed Brussels sprouts, spiced red cabbage are perfect for those wanting a traditional dish. Alternately for those who love fish, a beautiful roasted cod with red wine braised salsify, sea vegetables, parsnip crisps and a star anis glaze.
After such rich and settling comfort food, desert could be seen as a struggle but a buche de noël, crème de marron glacé, pouring cream or a selection of British and French cheese with apple chutney, toasted hazelnut and prune bread perfectly finished off this exquisite lunch.
Angelus offers great value for money along with an unbeatable wine cellar - all the wines we had perfectly matched the courses. The evolving menu makes the most of British ingredients allows diners to discover French cuisine in a new way. With the restaurant also opening on Boxing Day, head to Bathurst Street for well served food to celebrate making it through Christmas. 
Enquiries: Angelus, 4 Bathurst Street, London W2 2SD / 0207 4020083 / [email protected] / http://www.angelusrestaurant.co.uk/