Welcome to the Hood
Following a complete refurbishment and the appointment of a new Head Chef, Barrio Central has relaunched as Barrio Soho
Review by Tanya Sun
The ability to gauge the vibe of a neighborhood, or ‘barrio’ for those Spanish speakers among us, is absolutely crucial for those in the food and beverage industry, and it’s something that the team behind London’s Barrio bars have down to a tee.
Located on Poland Street at the very heart of an area that has long embraced the brash and the eccentric, the new and improved Barrio Soho is hard to miss. Upon entering the main-street level bar, patrons are met with a celebration of all things Latino. Decorated by someone who is clearly not afraid of colour, the playful and brazen atmosphere of this late night hangout all but jumps out from the walls (some of which are plastered with monkeys, others with Mexican sugar skulls).
To match the spirit of the revamped venue, recently appointed Group Head Chef, Ernesto Pavia, has created an exotic new menu to showcase the exuberant flavours that characterise his Peruvian roots. With an eclectic international career that has seen him working in a three Michelin star restaurant in France, Argentinian steakhouses Garufa and Garufin, and more recently as Head Chef of London’s own Bubbledogs, Pavia is a man who knows that you can take your food seriously while still having fun.
Offering everything from yellow mole to yucca, this new menu does well to set the venue apart from being just another Mexican joint in Soho. For a shared starter, the Elotes are a must. Think grilled corn on the cob, slathered in cheese and chili mayonnaise, offset by a dash of lime. Another option is the Ceviche Mixto, a mix of seafood in tiger’s milk with avocado, crispy sweet potato and serrano chili. This dish is a true testament to the bold flavours that makes Peruvian cuisine such a delight. It’s as spicy as it is tangy, as chewy as it is crunchy.
While the Chicharron Mixto (a selection of crispy pig’s ears, lightly puffed pork crackling and pig’s trotter croquettes) is tasty in the way that most fried food is, it pales in comparison to the Cactus Quesadilla. A grilled corn tortilla filled with cactus and a three cheese melt, this quesadilla is simple and messy in all the right ways.
Not to be overlooked, the venue’s drinks menu has also been given a facelift. Rum and tequila heavy, the updated cocktail list offers a unique selection of cocktail classics, all of which have been given a Barrio twist and all of which are dangerously easy to drink. In particular, the Wonkey Donkey (Casco Viejo tequila, elderflower, ginger, lime and soda) is so refreshing and so delightful that it made this adamant non-tequila drinker order two.
In the very likely event that you find yourself a few cocktails deep and ready for a more DJ party vibe, Barrio Soho’s basement bar is the place to be. Home to live music and cheeky bartenders, downstairs is where you go for one of those ridiculous nights you wish you could remember.
With a Barrio South slated to open in Brixton at the end of the year, you can rest assured that the Barrio bars have your late night needs covered whatever neighbourhood you’re in. For those in Central London, the new-look Barrio Soho is perfect for a cheeky night out. 
Enquiries: Barrio Soho, 6 Poland Street, Soho W1F 8PS / 02077493940 / [email protected] / www.welovebarrio.com /
Other branches: Barrio North, Barrio East, Barrio South (opening in December 2015)