What is ‘Black Tie’ Dress Code?
Get it right to make an elegant splash at your black tie event. Our man from Johnny Tuxedo runs over the bases. Pay attention…
Guide by Austen Pickles
Don’t get confused. Tuxedo, black tie or dinner jacket are just different names for the same thing.
Black Tie consists of a black dinner jacket aka tuxedo with matching black trousers, a white formal shirt and a black bow tie. A black formal waistcoat or a black cummerbund are optional. ‘White Tie’ is more formal and involves a black tailcoat and trousers, white shirt, white waistcoat and white bow tie.
How do I wear a dinner jacket?
The classic Bond look is quite simple - black here, white there – but don’t just throw it on please. I am not the biggest fan of rules but there are some rules with a tux that you should respect and some that you can stick two fingers up to.
First, buy a suit that fits and don’t borrow or hire one that was made with someone else in mind. Press your trousers and your shirt. Unlike your jeans, you need a well-defined crease down the centre front of your trouser leg. Your shirt should be wrinkle free with a crease down the sleeve from shoulder point to cuff and your collar needs to be perfectly flat. Wear black socks and black shoes.
You can cheat with a pre-tied bow tie but please, if you can tie your own shoe laces you can learn how to tie your own bow tie. Free lesson here. Grooming is personal but tidy hair and beard will help this outfit achieve the results you want. And add aftershave. If you smell awful after all this effort you only have yourself to blame.
Sorry, why wouldn’t I hire a dinner suit?
Just don’t. The hire-suit makers want you, your dad, your granddad and everyone else to wear the same suits so they have to make them ‘multi-fit’ – big, baggy and bulletproof. Don’t waste the opportunity to look great and win some hearts at your black tie event.
Need another reason? It can cost around £70 for a hire suit and shirt which is crazy when you can buy the whole package cheaply online. For example, a Johnny Tuxedo suit, shirt and tie will set you back £120. Wear it twice and you’re making money.
What is the best jacket style?
Single-breasted jackets are best and should be one button fastening, not two or three. Beware, some fashion brands just don’t have a clue. A dinner jacket should never have a notch lapel – that’s the one with the ‘v’ between the collar and lapel. Peak lapels (upwards pointing) and shawl collars (no notches, just a sleek collar) are the only acceptable options.
You could go for a double-breasted jacket which is acceptable etiquette but only if you want to look out-dated and stand out a mile. Jacket pockets should be jetted, ie without flaps. The material on the lapels should match the braiding on the trouser leg and the button fabric – normally satin. The jacket can either have a closed back with no vent or side vents to give you easier access to your trouser pockets and a nice silhouette. A centre vent is a no-no.
What about my trousers? Should I wear a belt?
Never never wear a belt with a tuxedo. Tuxedo trousers should not even have belt loops. Use a side adjuster buckle to adjust your trousers if they are fitted, or wear braces (black please). Your trousers should never have turn-ups or pleats either. Down the outside leg there should be a tape or ribbon in the same type of fabric as the facing on the jacket lapel.
What kind of shirt should I wear?
My rule for the classic Bond look is white shirt, turn down collar and double cuffs. A wing collar is for ‘White Tie’ events. The front part (the bib) should be pleated or Marcela which is the textured fabric made up of little diamonds. If your shirt has pleats, make sure they are slim and pressed flat or you will end up looking like a throwback to the 1970s. Double cuff means you’ll need cufflinks but this is not an excuse to add your own twist and wear something silly. Black tie is all about elegance and dapper understatement so use simple elegant cufflinks - silver, black or white – or possibly silk knots.
Do I have to wear a tie?
Yes, you certainly do! The tie material should match the facing of the suit - satin with satin. At the risk of repeating myself, tie it yourself unless you have a damn good excuse not to. If you really need to wear a pre-tied tie, then make sure it’s black.
Some people like to mix things up with a colourful tie or add in velvet or spots. Please don’t, you could look like a clown. Clearly my advice is to go formal all the way but if you are determined to ignore etiquette then I admit that a long slim black neck-tie can create a good look. Go for a plain white shirt though, not a dinner shirt. If you are sporting an even more casual look, a skinny scarf might be the answer.
Do I have to have black patent shoes?
You might have seen shiny patent leather slip on pumps worn by celebrities on the red carpet but please don’t do it yourself. These shoes are really for ‘white tie’ events and even then you would just look soft.
Stick with patent or well-polished black lace-ups. Avoid brogues (with patterns punched in the leather). A simple well-polished black-cap toe is ideal. Again, if you are pushing the boundaries and young enough to carry it off then you could wear a sneaker or high top but don’t say I said so….
What’s a pocket square?
It’s a small handkerchief in your jacket breast pocket, folded nicely, just peeking out. A white cotton square is ideal but you could also get away with a tiny flicker of colour here. Somebody told me that their girlfriend insisted the pocket square should match the colour of her dress. That’s another no-no. Your suit and your sartorial integrity are your business. This is not your wedding.
Do I need a cummerbund?
In a word, no. Etiquette says that your trouser waistband should be covered. When you fasten your jacket, you don’t want a triangle of shirt and waistband protruding from underneath the jacket button. You could wear a plain black cummerbund or a waistcoat to cover this area, but they’re not popular at the moment and you will look like your dad. I say keep your jacket buttoned until the evening has relaxed. By then you will have blown everyone away anyway.
What about a coat?
Ideally you should look good outside the event as well as inside. Don’t just put on your ski jacket or parka for the journey. An older man would wear a Chesterfield coat with a velvet collar but a black wool coat would be perfect. If you don’t have a suitable coat and it’s not snowing, just add a plain or semi plain (spotty?) black or white silk scarf with your suit and run.
In summary…
“A man should look as though he has chosen his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them.” Sir Hardy Amies 
Austen is the owner and founder of Johnny Tuxedo.
Enquiries: 0845 3058414 / [email protected] / www.johnnytuxedo.co.uk/