A Distinctly Feminine Flourish
Laura Waite has created versatile, elegant and timeless pieces as well as having recently begun to offer men’s tailoring
Article by Rupert Watkins
Having worked for Quintessentially, Laura Waite had always wanted to start her own label. Keen to keep a classic and timeless feel to her clothes, Laura decided to focus on women’s blazers. Four years ago she took stands at events such as Henley Regatta and the Gold Cup at Cowdray Park. These initial ventures turned out to be a success and buyers were so taken by the style and cut of her garments that off the back of this she was approached by Holland & Holland. The Mayfair shooting and countrywear company was looking to reinvigorate and give a city edge to their women’s safari collection; Laura is still designing their women’s tweeds.
Not being a trained cutter or having studied fashion at university, Laura happily confesses to specialising in measuring. Until recently she concentrated on womenswear though she had long wanted to offer men’s made to measure. In order to ensure her new offering would be as good as possible, she approached Davies & Son on the Row and spent much of the past year learning about men’s tailoring under the guidance of Alan Bennett, Davies & Son’s recently retired head. Her men’s service was launched in October at The Independents Club pop up.
Her men’s business currently makes up about 30 per cent of her work despite its recent launch. Laura mentions though that already the men are by turnover rapidly becoming her moneymakers. They will frequently buy two or three suits for work wear whereas her female clientele is far more careful and precise when buying. Even return fans will tend to buy one jacket and wear it whilst considering their next purchase before coming back – though they always do.
Laura looks to fuse the dapper and rigorously tailored Savile Row aesthetic with a softer, more feminine, edge. Her tweed riding jackets are made in unusual colours and finishes and are a very pretty and smart way to add elegance to both work and play outfits. Laura looks to always use British fabrics and cloths – utilizing Harris Tweed extensively. For both her men’s and women’s garments she uses a small factory in Portugal; having worked with them since Calder was set up, she praises the precision and craftsmanship of the work.
Recently moving offices into Radnor Walk in Chelsea, Laura is also continuing to focus on wholesale opportunities; her women’s jackets are stocked by Wolf & Badger and Peek Boutique and she has begun a men’s collaboration with Hawkins & Shepherd, the tab collar shirt makers, to create a formal collection including suits, jackets and coats. This tie-in will be launched at MODA this February.
Throughout her time as a tailoress, Laura has very much learnt as she’s gone along. Having no fashion studies background meant that initially she felt she would be at a disadvantage designing a collection. However, as she has developed her clothes, she has made a point to train with the best – her time with Davies & Son being an example. Like many other designers and entrepreneurs who have come into the luxury world, the experiences and skills she learnt outside the industry have proven to be as useful and offered a differing perspective and motivation.
Given the innate flexibility of her designs being able to be worn from town to country, her female clientele ranges from 30-year-olds to those more mature. As Laura comments, her clothes are “a luxury item – you appreciate investing in such a piece.” She also sees the influence of capsule wardrobes as ever more women look to rigorously focus on “spending money on good but fewer things.” Whilst more recent, she sees most of her male customers being between 30 and 50 sitting at that point where they wish to move upwards away from off-the-peg garments. Conventional hues and fabrics remain dominant with the vast majority of her men’s suits being ordered for work.
As Calder – the name is Laura’s mother’s maiden one – looks to carefully enlarge its range of garments, Laura has designed a range of women’s leather trousers. In either legging or jean style they are in stretch nappa leather or suede. Currently Laura offers them as a made to measure option at Radnor Walk in a varied range of colours. Wearer’s initials can be discreetly monogrammed on the finished trouser. Come next month, the first ready to wear collection of leather trousers will be unveiled at the Autumn/Winter 2016 Paris Fashion Week.
Throughout her time in fashion – especially as one focusing on women’s blazers – Laura continues to be struck by women’s inattention to fit. All too often she sees women struggling to dress appropriately for their body shapes (something the writer has found other female tailors who do a lot of female tailoring comment on as well). Laura points to ensuring the length of the garment is in proportion and that the colour matches skin tone as two areas where she finds women need advice and guidance in the best traditions of English dressmaking and tailoring.
With an increasing number of stockists, budding collaborations in both women’s and men’s wear and indications of interest at Vogue House, Calder begins 2016 in fine fettle and is showing at London Fashion Week. Those looking for that timeless and elegant piece should certainly make an appointment with Laura and hotfoot it to Radnor Walk before she becomes the A-list talk of the town. 
Enquiries: Calder, 13 Radnor Walk, Chelsea, SW3 4BP / 0207 1937159 / [email protected] / www.calderlondon.com/about/