Charles Doyard, Chef de Cave of Champagne Doyard
12th generation Champagne producer hopes his work on making the vineyard organic will be another Doyard achievement to set alongside those of his predecessors
Interview by Kyle Ridington Courtesy of Kyle’s Champagne Made me Do it
Doyard, founded in the 17th Century in the town of Vertus of the Côte des Blancs, has been domaine bottling just shy of a century. In 1941, Maurice Doyard co-founded an organization to control the production and distribution of Champagne called CIVC (Comité Interprofessionel des Vins de Champagne). Later, Yannick Doyard would imprint his legacy by constructing Champagnes aged in oak and bottled at a lower pressure, a tip of the hat to the traditional Champagne. At present, 12th generation Charles Doyard takes the spotlight.
What are the most significant changes you’ve made since taking over the domaine?
In the vineyards, there was no work of the soil before—it now represents 80 per cent of the vineyards. We also changed our philosophy for the treatments to obtain more natural results and decided to work with organic and natural products only.
What makes your Champagnes unique and standout from other houses?
We use only the best juices for our wines of Champagne. Then, we mainly do our first alcoholic fermentation in oak barrels which come from Burgundy (of four wines minimum). The wood brings much roundness and the aromas are more complex. With all this time, the wine stays on fine lees.
Moreover, we let the bottles stay in cellars longer in order to maximize the aromas (almost five years for non-vintages). We also reduce the pressure of our bottles in the aim to obtain fine and elegant bubbles.
Finally, almost all of our range have a low dosage (mainly cuvees extra-brut), except one, cuvee La Libertine, which is unique and is a sweet Champagne which refers to the 18th Century.
When you are not drinking Champagne what is your preferred drink?
Still wine. Especially great wines from Burgundy, Rhone Valley and Loire.
If you could make wine in another region where would it be and why?
I had a great experience when I made the 2008 harvest in Argentina. I fell in love with that country, their culture and the open-mindedness of the Argentinian people.
Name one Champagne house that impresses you and why?
Roederer House for the constant quality of their different cuvees and the new natural viticulture that they put in place on the last decade. It’s also a family business, not like the other big brands in Champagne.
What are your thoughts on the 2015?
It look to be a great vintage—we were lucky to have rain of the 20th August which finished the maturity of the grapes. We now await the wine, but I can already say it will give us a great quality wines.
Who is your most influential mentor when if comes to making Champagne?
My father, Yannick Doyard.
Where do you take your holiday in August before the harvest?
We don’t take holiday in August because we have also a bed & breakfast and we are often fully-booked in this period. We used to go my wife’s family near Cognac. Cognac is a great region and offers nice products for a winemaker. 
Enquiries: www.matthewclark.co.uk/products/champagne/champagne-white-nv/doyard-oeil-de-perdrix-grand-cru-extra-brut-mill%C3%A9sime-75cl/ (UK distributor)