Destination Macao
East meets West and old sits alongside new in vibrant and bustling Macao. The food alone is worth travelling for
Article and photography by Jonathan Phang
Macao sits on the western side of the Pearl River Delta, just 64 kilometres east from Hong Kong and is bordered by Guangdong of Mainland China. The Macao peninsula is approximately 32 kilometres square, with a further two islands, named Taipa and Coloane. Taipa is linked to Macao by three bridges. The area of reclaimed land that provides access between the two islands is called Cotai.
Originally a sleepy Cantonese fishing village, Macao’s fortunes changed dramatically with the arrival of the Portuguese in the mid-16th Century, who established the region as an important trading post on routes between Europe, China and Japan. Macao remained under Portuguese administration until 1999 when it became, like its neighbour Hong Kong, a Special Administrative Region of China.
For me, the name Macao conjured up mysterious images of exotic goddesses, tuk-tuks and fishing junks at sunset. I had no idea what to expect from the former Portuguese colony and I concede that due to its reputation of being the Las Vegas of the East, I had been remiss in avoiding Macao - despite numerous visits to Hong Kong.
However, this time I decided to make Macao my base. I landed at Hong Kong International Airport, walked off the aircraft and took a welcomed gentle stroll to the ferry terminal and within minutes I was seated on a ferryboat bound for Macao. Just over an hour later, I had cleared customs, collected my luggage and was en route to my hotel of choice, the MGM Grand. I selected the hotel based on its reputation, location and size. It is considered a medium sized resort, which appealed to me, as I find very large properties soulless and a little scary, especially whilst travelling alone. The central location meant that I could easily explore all areas of Macao, both old and new.
I opted for a grand deluxe ocean view room, which delivered both style and substance, with stunning uninterrupted views across the Nam Van Lake and the vibrant Cotai skyline. As I sank into my king size bed and watched the sun go down, I felt happy with my choice and looked forward to discovering Macao. My only dilemma being which restaurant to choose first out of the hotel’s six.
The MGM houses an impressive collection of contemporary art, displayed throughout its public areas and has recently opened the MGM Art Space, a multi-purpose 8,000 sq. ft. gallery designed to entertain and inspire. The hotel is committed to making art accessible to all people, and regularly exhibits new works by local artists.
With approximately sixteen million tourists passing through Macao each year, there is a plethora of hotels to choose from and standards are very high. The MGM surpassed my expectations and was everything that one hopes to find from a luxury five star hotel in the Far East i.e. sophisticated design, flattering lighting, opulent fixtures and fittings, a choice of high-end dining and exceptional service. All offered at a competitive price.
After an exquisite Cantonese meal at the hotel’s Imperial Court restaurant, and a great night’s sleep, I began my tour at the Macao Museum, which is housed in Mount fortress, atop Mount Hill. The surrounding pretty manicured grounds are the perfect place to survey the environs and soak up spectacular panoramic vistas of the peninsula. The museums’ emphasis is on Macao’s social history and economic growth, with tableaux depicting typical family life throughout the ages. The thoughtfully curated, enjoyable museum provided me with enough knowledge and understanding, to feel excited about the sightseeing ahead.
Adjacent to the museum are the ruins of St Paul’s church, Macao’s most famous landmark and a sight to behold. Completed in 1640, the iconic intricately carved stone façade survived a fire during a typhoon in 1835 and sits imposingly above the majestic old city. The beautifully preserved historic centre, is a Unesco world heritage site; a winding maze of cobbled mosaic streets, punctuated with brightly painted ancient cathedrals, theatres, colleges and mansions, juxtaposed amongst traditional Chinese bakeries, restaurants and Buddhist temples. All roads lead to Senado Square, the beating heart and central meeting point of Macao since its beginnings. It plays host to most cultural events, and is a perfect spot to watch the world go by whilst snacking on local delicacies such as almond cakes, custard tarts and meat jerky. The bakeries around this tourist mecca are very generous with free samples, which meant that none of my purchases went to waste and for once, I was happy to skip lunch.
The Red Market is housed over three floors in a red brick art deco building, in one the oldest residential parts of town. The popular market is the culinary hub of local life and a hive of activity. It is open daily from 7:30am until 7:30pm and sells dry goods and fruit and veg on the ground floor, an amazing variety of fish and seafood on the second floor and meat on the third floor. It gets gorier the higher you go. I loved it, but if you are squeamish or faint hearted, I recommend that you stay on the ground floor.
The surrounding shopping streets known as the Three Lamps District, are vibrant and chaotic, selling everything from bbq pork to bicycle clips. These areas are off the tourist trails and offer a glimpse of real local life. Taipa Village is where the Taipa community (early Portuguese settlers) began and it has retained much of its authenticity and Mediterranean charm, although just a stones throw away from the ultra-modern Cotai Strip. Colonial villas, ancient temples, museums and antique shops sit serenely amidst colourful street vendors, traditional restaurants and old-fashioned street lamps with hanging flower baskets. Rua da Cunha or Food Street, as it is nicknamed, draws tourists and locals alike, eager to savour Macanese, Portuguese and Cantonese cuisine. At night, the narrow streets come alive and a trip down a dark alley can often result in the discovery of a hidden bar or family run restaurant, serving home cooked meals to the strains of live Fado.
Coloane is the quieter of Macao’s two islands and is a place to escape the crowds and relax. This laid back, lush countryside idyll is covered with green hills and golden sandy bays. There is a championship golf course, a go karting track, and sports facilities; something for all the family and only a 40 minute bus ride away from the centre of town. Coloane Village is a romantic seaside town, with pedestrianised streets full of artisan workshops, shop houses and an array of open-air cafes and great seafood restaurants. It also has its fair share of temples and churches, and is a joy to walk around. Its real claim to fame however, is egg tarts. English pharmacist Andrew Stow, loved Portuguese pastel de nata, but no one would give him a recipe, so he decided to create his own. Eventually he opened his own acclaimed bakery in 1989. Lord Stow’s Bakery produces 13,000 egg tarts daily and once tasted, it is understandable why there is a perpetual queue outside its doors. I ate three in succession and wanted more.
Given my mixed raced heritage, which includes Chinese and Portuguese, I was particularly excited to try the local food. Macanese is recognised as one the world’s first fusion cuisines, which dates back hundreds of years and is a unique blend of Southern Chinese and Portuguese flavours, mixed with spices from India, Latin America, Africa and South East Asia. I found the melting pot of tastes to be both exciting and appetising. Unlike anything else that I have ever tasted, it’s an inventive cuisine which came out of people’s homes, with its secret recipes being passed down from generation to generation. African chicken, Minchi, curried crab and pork in tamarind and shrimp paste, were amongst my favourite dishes.
With 16 Michelin starred restaurants (two of them three starred) Macao is now firmly rooted as a major food destination, attracting some of the world’s greatest chefs. I ate like a king during my stay and circumnavigated the culinary globe at every sitting. Litoral, Antonio’s, Riquexo Macao were a few of my favourite local restaurants. Sushi and Sashimi were re defined at Shinji (City of Dreams), I went to heaven and back with a white truffle-tasting menu at Aux Beaux Arts (MGM Grand) and marvelled at the sight of Macao’s spectacular illuminations, whilst simultaneously revolving and gorging on a seafood buffet at 765 ft up, in the Macao Tower (bungee jumping was the other option).
Cotai, the area between Taipa and Coloane is Macao’s Las Vegas style strip, with a grid of big casino hotels such at the Wynn Palace, The Parisian, The Venetian, The Sands, Studio City, Galaxy to name just a few, with lots more on the way. I have never seen anything like it and was truly astounded at the scale and creativity of this veritable dreamland. The resorts are state of the art engineering feats, which are tastefully excessive, with scrupulous attention to detail. Top quality leisure facilities abound within each of these themed establishments and every attempt possible is made to ensure that the whole family is kept happy, entertained and occupied.
My last night was spent at The House of Dancing Water (City of Dreams). It is a spectacular, innovative show, staged on water, combining, ballet, gymnastics and death defying stunts with a love fable. The show’s creator is Franco Dragone who was, for many years, the artistic director of Cirque du Soleil and has also staged many shows in Las Vegas. It took my breath away.
Macao is a year round destination, an intriguing blend where East meets West and old sits effortlessly alongside the new. It delivers a myriad of opportunities, culturally, socially and gastronomically. I spent five happy days there and left wanting more. I had no time to relax by the pool and I completely forgot to visit a casino. 