Sky High Sipping
The views are not the only thing that should draw you here. Richard Woods’ ever changing array of cocktails are sure to tempt and challenge in equal measure
Review by Rupert Watkins
The Heron Tower on Bishopsgate is quite the Square Mile’s go to edifice. With both Duck & Waffle and Sushi Samba in residence, there is enough to tempt even the most jaded of the City’s alcoholically inclined traders. Heading up to the small, but pulsing Duck & Waffle bar, the vistas of North London unveil themselves before you. The bar itself is laid out around a central drinks and cocktail making cabinet with exposed wood panelling and graffitied walls giving a slightly edgier and hip environment to drink in than perhaps one might expect. Leather stools and banquets are placed around the edges of the room and there are high tables to sit at as well. Floor to ceiling windows give wonderful views.
The drinks menu, under the exuberant and quirky eye of Head of Spirit and Cocktail Development Richard Woods bursts with slightly subversive and outré takes on the classics as well as some original numbers that Richard charmingly explains, “were accidents….but they just work.” Starting with a Nutella Negroni and Marmite Black Velvet, both were delicious in differing ways – in fact the addition of the Marmite reduction gave the Black Velvet a rather nice bite. My Nutella Negroni came with a personalised label with Richard explaining how he had home distilled the Nutella reduction – a different take on the sweet/ sour taste of this classic cocktail.
Richard trained as an architect before finding himself in the cocktail world. That said, he still sees himself building things, “I construct with tastes now.” He is looking to move to a monthly changing drinks menu; as such April’s theme is “Drink your Greens.” A selection of this month’s drinks were placed before my guest and I. A celeriac and bee pollen liqueur Bellini proved rather drinkable, the celeriac giving a nicely tart aroma but settling well in taste with the fizz. A beetroot and chocolate Kir Royale again proved a tasty left of field option, both of us agreeing the beetroot and chocolate melded well together. Those on the wagon are provided for with the Garden Spritz, a red pepper and elderflower drink topped with soda my guest and I found delicious. Bursting with flavour (and hopefully a good way to get a dose of vitamin C), this had a crisp, slightly sharp taste to it.
The bar’s Clarified Bloody Mary offered an interesting take on this classic. Using gin and yellow tomatos, the ingredients mean a somewhat softer – perhaps slightly tarter – final drink than perhaps some Bloody Mary fanatics are used to. Not being a fan of high octane Bloody Marys I thoroughly enjoyed it.
With good olives and the Duck & Waffle take on pork scratching, bbq spiced crisped pig ears, to accompany it was fascinating chatting with Richard about the sheer time, effort – and mistakes – that go into their drinks menu (his Manhattan Roast with bourbon and caramelised red onion was an experiment that, “came out perfectly first time round..”). The various reductions and infusions added to the drinks are all home-made and he is utilising a home distilled gin as well. This constant experimentation is also seen in the themes being considered for future months; Richard is pondering ideas such as foraging and playing off colour against taste.
Those who are rigourously traditional in their drinks may find some of Richard’s creations a trifle too off-beat. However, for the alcoholically curious, this sky high bar is a rather pleasant spot to challenge one’s drinking expectations whilst watching the sun go down. 
Reservations advisable.
Enquiries: Duck & Waffle, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY / 0203 6407310 / https://duckandwaffle.com/