My Top Ten Restaurants
Riddle’s food expert gives his top ten places to eat
Article by Jonathan Phang
When I was asked to cherry-pick just ten restaurants from the British capital’s burgeoning dining scene, I didn’t realise how much my suggestions would reveal about my character. Truth be told, it leaves me feeling slightly shy. Much as I like trying new places, it’s clear, from my list that I’m also a creature of habit, a slave to West London and enjoy familiarity. It’s also apparent that I’m in my autumn years and need to be somewhere dimly lit.
Once I find a place that serves delicious food, I tend to be loyal and enjoy getting to know the front-of-house team as well as becoming acquainted with their menus. Luckily for me I know plenty of chefs, many of whom often cook for me at their homes. Therefore for me, dining out is all about an overall experience - service and atmosphere as much as the food. With that sentiment in mind, these are ten restaurants that I trust never to let me down.
Star of India
Owned by the family of one my oldest friends, the fabulous chef Reza Mahamed, “The Star” is a stalwart - a jewel in Kensington’s crown - serving the whole spectrum of Indian classics, as well as an array of contemporary surprises that change seasonally. I first visited in 1981 and have been going regularly ever since. The only thing missing from the cool and soothing interior is an old baby grand that was, sadly, removed from the restaurant’s upstairs because the noise upset local residents.
154 Old Brompton Road, London, SW5 0BE (www.starofindia.eu)
Joe Allen
I don’t know what I’d do without Joe Allen. This Covent Garden theatregoers’ institution has seen me through thick and thin, good and bad, and has been witness to behaviour that I would rather forget and may never admit to. Here, good ole’ American fare - Caesar salad, steaks, barbecue ribs and apple pie a la mode – should be washed down with copious Bloody Marys. If they only have a table left at the bar, take it - you’ll have a blast.
13 Exeter Street, WC2E 7DT (www.joeallen.co.uk)
Le Caprice
Even after 30 years of patronage, I still feel special, when I manage to book a table at this understatedly chic Mayfair icon. The black, white and chrome interior, accented with their distinct midnight blue neon, remains fresh, and displays what is arguably the best collection of David Bailey’s portraits outside of the V&A. The atmosphere and service are exemplary, while the food is creative, extensive and fairly good value. Jesus Adorno runs this faultless ship with infectious charm and wit.
Arlington House, Arlington Street, SW1A 1RJ (www.le-caprice.co.uk)
The Royal China
When I was growing up, we regularly went for dim sum in Chinatown.
My uncle, James, owned the Loon Fung restaurant in Gerrard Street at the time, so we were spoilt rotten. Nowadays, it’s hard to find one authentic and traditional Chinese restaurant - one which serves everything well. The Royal China in Baker Street is best for dim sum, always fresh and tasty. Skip breakfast and go as early as possible on a Sunday morning to beat the crowds. Whenever you go, expect brusque and rushed service.
13 Queensway, W2 4QJ (www.rcguk.co.uk)
The Glasshouse
The Glasshouse is a neighbourhood restaurant like no other, and would not seem out of place in Chelsea or Mayfair. This pretty, light and airy Kew fixture is warm and welcoming and the Michelin-starred food is always delicious and full of bold, harmonious flavour combinations that one would not think of creating at home. The professional and friendly front-of-house staff enhance the overall experience further. Above all, it’s the perfect place to impress on special occasions.
14 Station Parade, Kew TW9 3PZ (www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk)
Sam’s Brasserie
Although my local high street is chockablock with restaurants, there are remarkably few which I want to spend any time in. Thankfully, I have Sam’s Brassiere a stone’s throw away from my home. It’s independent, open for all three meals and retains a loyal and friendly staff. The food is consistently well executed and there is always a good selection of fish and seafood on the menu. It has a lethal happy hour from 5-7pm on weekdays, during which times they also offer smaller versions of their most popular dishes to help soak up the cocktails.
11 Barley Mow Passage, Chiswick, W4 4PH (www.samsbrasserie.co.uk)
Essenza
This is my one of my absolute favourite local restaurants. Essenza is one of Notting Hill’s hidden gems. In a notoriously transitory neighbourhood, it offers comforting home-cooked Italian food at its best. It also offers a lunchtime prix fixe menu, which is great value and does not compromise any of the quality of the a la carte menu. Should you have a particular craving, the chef will happily accommodate your every desire.
210 Kensington Park Road Notting Hill Gate W11 1NR (www.essenza.co.uk)
Adams Café
An old-school greasy spoon by day, Adams café transforms itself into an atmospheric, epicurean Moroccan /Tunisian dining room by night. Abdel and Frances, the charming couple who run it, clearly love what they do and are passionate about sharing their knowledge and serving authentic cuisine.
I have never experienced Mediterranean food as good as this - not in Morocco or anywhere else. The prices are very reasonable and the option to BYO means that there are no nasty surprises at the end of an evening.
77 Askew Road Shepherds Bush, W12 9AH (www.adamscafe.co.uk)
Ming Jiang
Fact: there is no place better for Peking duck than Ming Jiang. It’s not cheap, but it’s well worth it. All the food served here is excellent, but it’s the duck that stands out. They recommend half a duck to be shared between two. I say treat yourself to a whole one and forgo pudding…
Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High Street, W8 4PT (www.minjiang.co.uk)
Dub Jam
I’d like to consider myself a jerk aficionado, and the perfection of my jerk marinade is an ongoing process. However, for the second best jerk in town, go to Dub Jam in Covent Garden. The jerk belly pork skewers are to die for, especially when washed down with a refreshing, reggae-infused rum punch.
The place only seats about ten people and they depend on a quick turnover.
Which is a shame, as I always want to stay all night…
20 Bedford Street, London WC2E 9HP (www.dubjam.co.uk)