Model Chat
With London Fashion Week kicking off, we get the lowdown on life behind the catwalk with Samantha Tomlin– and why older models should be coming to the fore
1. What is the current trend in regards to model age?
If anything models are getting younger. Starting at 14 or 15 now is becoming the norm and finishing your catwalk career by the time your age 25. This is an incredibly short time frame for a boy or girl when they are probably at their least confident yet the industry tells us, “this is when they look their best.”
2. Why do you think older models are being overlooked?
There is no reason older models should be overlooked. We feel older models exude beauty just as much at 30 upwards, but the stereotype seems to be to use younger models to advertise products aimed at older age groups - and then pass them off for the older model that should be used. This leaves the 30 plus model with no choice but to find themselves working almost exclusively in the commercial market.
3. Is there a difference in the industry in regards to men/ girls and the ages they start and finish? If so, why?
Men seem to be allowed to age and are seen as equally bookable as they get older and greyer. The catwalk reflects this greatly but more so with campaigns for luxury brands. Market research shows women and men over 30 are equally the main buyers of high end fashion purchasing over 52 per cent of luxury goods. But somehow the 30 plus man seems to be favoured in the industry over the 30 plus woman.
It’s a big market and the designers should be showing loyalty to the 30 plus model, especially the women who are in the main over looked.
4. What’s the key to being a good/ bookable model?
Repeat bookings come to models who work professionally, diligently and with good humour at all times. Those able to take direction well and also use initiative will be successful as will those who can convey emotion - expressing a mood that matches the product. You have to be able to connect with the photographer and team involved on a professional level. Last but not least is to be punctual and polite – the basics!
5. What are the benefits to being an older model?
Well, there are many. One of the main ones is being able to match the age of the model to the product being advertised as they are almost invariably using young models to advertise products aimed at the older and more mature generation. Nothing matches experience and you always get this with the older model.
6. What is the opinion at the British Fashion Council?
Caroline Rush is the chief executive of the BFC and she agrees with us that age is the missing component in fashion. Size, ethnic diversity and disabled models have been tackled but ageism has not yet and needs to be.
7. What’s the next step to get recognition for older models?
We are working with designers and casting directors to raise the visible profile of older models on catwalks and campaigns. It’s an emotive campaign as 30 plus women and men can feel overlooked. Also from a buyers perspective, the customer wants to be shown a model of their own age group and in return would relate more and be more confident to buy products from the big luxury brands.
Samantha Tomlin and Jana Forster are the founders of model agency Classic Models, founded especially for aspirational models aged 30 years and over.
Enquiries: Classic Models, 17 Cavendish Square, London, W1G 0PH/ 020 7129 1405/ [email protected]/ www.classicmodels.agency