“All the World’s an Eatery and all the Men and Women Merely Hungry…”
Our reviewer finds a slick and well-run establishment, but wonders if the food lacks a little individuality
Review by Joe Harbot
The Swan Bar and Restaurant situated within Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre on the Southbank has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment upstairs, to coincide with Shakespeare400, a program of events ‘marking the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death’.
Although the restaurant was largely empty when we ate there on Monday evening, the atmosphere was warm and relaxed, and the view over the Thames was an undeniable pleasure. It was comfortable, and the acoustics were good, thanks to the padded tables, which although close to each other, were carefully positioned to provide the feeling of personal space.
Painted in muted greys and greens the interior runs the gamut of all the hallmarks of a contemporary eatery. Everything feels familiar, from the exposed brickwork to the vintage incandescent bulbs, mismatched designer lamp fittings and mismatched furniture: Eames style chairs beside a velvet chaise long beside tall leather bar stools beside rustic wooden tables beside large circular marble ones. The place aims for an off-the-cuff feel, but at the end of the day everything is a little too neat, a little too considered, to feel truly inspiring or to have any real depth of character.
Our waiter for the evening was Domenico, who was very smartly dressed, in a waistcoat and tie, but was down to earth, friendly and engaging throughout. Attentive without being overbearing, Domenico knew the wine list inside out and was happy to suggest wines to pair with each course, although we opted for a bottle. Wines started at around £20, all the way up to £220; on Domenico’s recommendation, we shared a beautiful, light French Burgundy, Rully Rouge, ‘La Chaume’ Claudie Jobard ’13 (£42), from enormous bowl-like glasses.
The menu itself is billed as showcasing ‘the best of classic British dishes, with a contemporary twist’. To start, my girlfriend chose the Braddock White duck egg (£6.50), which was basically a fried egg in the centre of a huge plate, surrounded by a scattering of wild mushrooms. The egg itself was rich and delicious, with a huge, perfectly runny yolk. The mushrooms added a light woody flavour, which she enjoyed, although when I tried it I got a considerable amount of grit crunching loudly between my teeth.
I chose the ox cheek with parsley mustard, chicory and caper salad (£8.50). The ox cheek came in two small, deep fried cubes, reminiscent of fish fingers, but the shredded meat inside had a good texture and depth of flavour, which was well counterbalanced by the fresh chicory. The parsley mustard was very mild, and the salad was nicely plated with sprigs of fresh dill and parsley. In addition to our starters, we were given a small bowl of sourdough bread with a good slab of salty butter, which we both used to wipe our plates clean.
For our main courses we chose the Beef Wellington (£24.50), as suggested to us by Domenico, and the Cornish Fish Stew (£22.50). The Wellington did not come with any carbs, so potatoes had to be ordered as a side dish (£3.50), and we were given more bread and butter. Unfortunately, neither of us fell in love with these choices. Both options were perfectly adequate, nicely presented although not much beyond that. Like the decor, they were lacking in character. This was unadventurous food. The Wellington, although pink in the centre, with crispy pastry all the way around, was rather bland, and the gravy was too viscous and salty, dominating the beef. The potatoes were a lovely purple colour, with plenty of butter and salt, but slightly underdone, a touch too hard in the middle, which was a shame. The fish stew came in a large bowl with toast. The fish itself was a little dry and the overall flavours all succumbed to the incredibly garlicky garlic mayonnaise, which my girlfriend complained was still lingering even after we had left the restaurant.
There was nothing really wrong with either of these options, but neither was their anything especially exciting. Everything was played safe to the point of dullness. Both options were reminiscent of a solid pub meal, perhaps due to their Britishness, but both were rather less wholesome and rather more corporate than what you might expect to find in your local boozer, not to mention priced considerably higher.
For dessert, we ordered the vanilla yoghurt panna cotta with rhubarb and meringue and the orange and cardamom polenta cake, and Domenico gave us a dry dessert wine to have with them. The former came in the bottom of a glass, rather than being shaped or turned out, and had the look of an ice cream sundae. The rhubarb itself was lovely, and the meringue gave a bit of texture, although overall I found it far too sweet, bordering on sickly, and lacking in flavour beyond that (although I did finish it). The neat square of polenta cake was much better, moist and gentle, decorated with a dollop of thick, rich creme fraiche and pieces of deep red blood orange, which cut sharply through the other flavours.
We left here satisfied, but not particularly inspired. The meal was good, but not entirely memorable. It was a little clinical, lacking heart and panache. This place may not be going to bring in customers for the quality of its food alone, although no doubt it will do a solid trade in passers by due to its excellent location and pleasant surroundings. Its connection to the Globe, as well as its quietly efficient service makes it an undeniably solid pre-theatre option, although it feels like a restaurant by numbers, driven by necessity and turnover, rather than a true love of food. 
Three course meal for two, inc. wine and service approx. £120 to £180
Enquiries: The Swan at the Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, London SE1 9DT / 0207 9289444 / www.swanlondon.co.uk/