Israeli Inspiration
Nestled in Rupert Street, The Palomor provides a fitting setting for varied and inventive Israeli food
Review by Sophie Aghdami
With chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi at the forefront of the culinary world, the reputation of Israeli food consisting only of falafels, shwarmas and hummous is long gone. Known biblically as “the land of milk and honey” Israel’s culture is synonymous with an enormous passion for food; its cuisine is favoured worldwide for diverse flavours and The Palomar prides itself with a menu ‘influenced by the rich cultures of Southern Spain, North Africa and the Levant’ focusing on flavours of modern day Jerusalem.
First impressions:
Having researched where to take the Birthday Boy for lunch to celebrate – choosing a ‘worthy’ restaurant to take a chef to is no easy task – I enter the restaurant with a mixed feeling of excitement, anticipation and trepidation. I need not have worried as we’re greeted by almost every staff member with a loud and friendly “hello!”, “welcome!” or “good day!” A great start and I’m glad that I’ve booked a table at the open kitchen bar as it seems to be the place to see all of the action; chefs are busy chopping, slicing, peeling and cooking on the other side of the zinc bar, which is laid up for 16 guests. The marble floor leads to another dining area at the back, which comprises of royal blue leather banquette seating, reclaimed parquet floor and dark oak panels.
Food:
The menu is divided into four clear sections - Nishnushin (nibbles), Raw Bar, Stove, Josper, Plancha and sweets – and we’re advised to choose the dishes we want to try, which will come as and when they are ready. We skip the Nishnushin (mainly breads and olives) and focus on the Raw Bar starting with the beetroot carpaccio, burnt goats’ cheese, hazelnuts & date and honey syrup. The dish looks beautiful and tastes sublime with a wonderful balance of sweetness, crunch and saltiness: the plate goes back licked clean.
The beef tartare follows consisting of hand chopped rump steak, burnt aubergine cream, Jospered tomato vinaigrette, toasted almonds and crispy Jerusalem artichoke. Having watched one of the chefs painstakingly peel the aubergines after being baked in preparation for the cream this element of the dish is fully appreciated and is bursting with smoky deliciousness. The meat is tender and the artichoke adds great texture. Again, a stunningly presented dish.
A huge, brain-like specimen arrives with the couple next to me and I realise it’s the whole cauliflower cooked in the Josper oven. Not something I can say I would ever choose, however they seem to enjoy it and devour the whole thing so perhaps a dish to try if you like that sort of thing.
Intrigued by the ‘Octo-hummous’ we order it and are delighted with the dish that arrives; a plate presented gorgeously with octopus “steak” from the Josper, chickpea msabacha and cherry tomato confit. The octopus is tender, sweet and smoky from the oven with the chickpeas and tomatoes giving great complementary textures.
To finish, we choose the chocolate crémeux with nougat kataifi, passion fruit, whipped cream and coco-hazelnut tuile, which is prepared in front of us by one of the characterful chefs. The coffee, albeit served in a tiny cup, is thick, dark syrup and I’m pretty sure it’s so strong that, when the sugar plops in, it determinedly stirs the spoon itself. I watch my partner in crime’s pupils dilate to the size of a nocturnal primate’s as the caffeine hits his blood stream whilst stating that it’s one of the best coffees he’s ever had.
Drinks wise, both still and sparkling water are free flowing once you pay for the initial glass and the wine list has some cracking choices on it; options range from Europe and the Americas to Israel and Lebanon. Champagne is served in little goblets and the organic Prosecco makes a nice aperitif.
Service is friendly and relaxed with waiters pouring drinks and serving food from either side of the bar depending on which one is more convenient at the time. Chefs create theatre for diners sitting at the bar with their conversation, joking and comradery.
Summary:
The balance of organised chaos in the open kitchen, delightful food both in presentation and flavour, and strong ethos of the restaurant all combine to create an ultimate dining experience not to be missed. Shukraan, The Palomar, for helping me discover one of my favourite restaurants in London to date. I cannot wait to go back. 
Enquiries: The Palomar, 34 Rupert Street, London, W1D 6DN / [email protected] / 0207 439 8777 / http://thepalomar.co.uk/