What Does the Dapper Chap Need…..?
New Year, new sartorial focus. Riddle ponders just what the stylish gent needs in his wardrobe…
Article by Rupert Watkins
The New Year, health resolutions, mid-life crises – even Jeremy Corbyn and David Cameron at PMQs - all conspire to make the eagerly stylish chap ponder at this time of year. What core items, how many suits for example, does one need in one’s wardrobe? It is not an easy question to answer as everyone’s needs and tastes are different. Given that sartorial and workplace conventions are also evolving at a bewildering rate the question is even more difficult.
Given these knotty difficulties, I shall eschew the definitive “This is your capsule wardrobe for £12,000” approach of some titles (no names, no pack drill City AM, GQ….) to contemplate key garments. There is an obvious split between those in office based work and those in more creative professions and so there are two conclusions. In search of sartorial enlightenment, I wore out some shoe leather to chat with three contrasting tailors, Tony Martin, head cutter at Benson & Clegg, Susannah Hall of her own firm and Erlend Norby of Taliare. Tony was quick to put the matter in perspective; one of his US East Coast customers regularly orders new fully bespoke suits from the firm and has around five at any one time in navies, greys and subtle pinstripes. Yet when en route to see Silicon Valley clients, that customer will change into jeans and trainers before going in to see the tech wizards. Back on Wall Street, the authority of the suit is unchallenged. Twin worlds.
The suit seems the natural place to start. Realistically the most authoritative garment in mens’ wardrobes (I boldly ignore the rare use of morning dress today) but with a pedigree going back to the English riding coat, it is the go-to garment for men be it for work or indeed a first date. Recent years have also seen the sartorial dogs dinner that was dress down Fridays mercifully consigned to the dustbin of history. Blogs, magazines and fresh, sculptured and lightweight tailoring have made the suit cool again. The bare minimum number to think about here is two, Tony believes the kernel of the wardrobe should revolve around one solid navy and one solid grey suit. Those in office based roles may need more – Susannah suggests the optimum number is five, one for each working day, though (given that expense) she believes that a careful dresser can work off three – each with a second pair of trousers.
A discreet pattern such as herringbone or birdseye is acceptable – indeed Susannah believes a faint pattern is needed to show an element of individuality and flair. Whilst pinstripes are smart (this writer is a fan), they are unfortunately deemed “old school” these days in the corporate environment. In this day and age, cloth is lighter in weight – Susannah, Erlend and Tony all comment they do very little work in cloth heavier than 12 ounces. Susannah reminisced that when she started and did a lot of work for barristers at nearby Grey’s Inn a much thicker and stiffer 15 ounce cloth was popular to see her clients through long days in unheated court rooms and months of robust wear. Such extremes are now no longer needed – those commuters amongst you might consider one 13 ounce number for the mid-winter but this cannot be seen as an essential. If you have the means to, go made to measure or bespoke and take the time to find out whether navy or grey works best for you and then what shade – ask advice. Skin tone, hair colour and body shape – even eye colour - all need to be taken into account. That said, Erlend makes the telling counter-point, “you should also look to dress the personality - not focus too rigidly on palette.”
Those lucky – or cursed - enough to work in more creative industries have more flexibility. You may be unlikely to use a suit (unless you enjoy wearing them) to the same degree but there is certainly more scope for pattern and colour. Over checks, bolder houndstooths and Prince of Wales checks can be indulged to your heart’s content. No more than one suit will need to be rigorously formal and plain in colour – there’s only so many times a year you have to see you bank manager! Certainly your second suit (and perhaps both if you’re adventurous enough) can be bolder; double breasted, quirky detailing and linings can be worked into the garment and will be acceptable in the office far more than perhaps in more traditional, conservative professions. The dominance of corporate America in how the business world dresses is clearly seen in the white shirted and dark two button suited hordes seen when this writer dares to wander around Canary Wharf.
Moving further down the wardrobe rail, the next essential item is universally agreed by my tailoring panel to be the blazer. In recent years this jacket has become a far more flexible and sleeker garment than many still consider the traditional brass button and double breasted blazer. As a modern (traditionally Benson & Clegg’s strength was full evening dress) blazer specialist, Tony has a lot of customers wanting a modern, elegant jacket that can be dressed up or down as the situation demands, “we now sell more blazers and tweed jackets than full suits.” Erlend, Tony and Susannah find single breasted one button – as well as two button – options to be very popular. Frequently now lighter (non-brass) horn buttons are used to show it is not merely part of a navy suit.
Tweed is becoming more popular than ever – Susannah comments that many customers are taken by the array of patterns – especially Harris Tweed – in her shop, “there is a tweed for everyone” she enthuses. The importance here is to find a tweed pattern that works both in town and country; unless you spend most of your time in the countryside, you will not need a heavy 16 ounce tweed. Brighter colours work well in the sticks but may be a little over the top for town wear. Tony reckons you should look for a 12 ounce all year round tweed. This will see you from more casual office wear when paired with a tie and more formal collared shirt to Sunday brunch on the King’s Road.
The final item that all the tailoring experts agreed upon was a top notch over coat. Despite this year’s milder and wetter winter, a formal outer coat is needed between November and March at least. Although navy is traditionally the smartest, tweed covert coats or overcoats add texture, look very smart over a suit and can also be worn with both smart casual and casual wear to add a dapper but relaxed outer layer. They do not even have to break the bank, Marks & Spencer – using the omnipresent Mr Gandy to model – have an excellent range of tweed coats.
So…. after much research into and debate over, what is the dapper chap’s base line wardrobe..? Given as mentioned two different core work environments, the good starting point for the office based man would be:
- Three suits. Navy, grey or mixed, ideally should you be able to afford made to measure or bespoke with a second set of trousers to increase longevity.
- One blazer. Should your office allow occasional flexibility in work wear, a blazer will be a more neutral choice and more acceptable in emergency meetings than perhaps a tweed and still be able to be paired with jeans for the weekend.
- One coat. I prefer tweed as it adds texture and is a more flexible smart and casual garment.
Those who live and work in more non-traditional professions should only need two suits and a tweed jacket can take the third suit’s place. I have kept the wardrobe at five items – which is both financially and practically attainable for many of us. As Erlend pointed out, “many men don’t plan and are not aware of the full size of their wardrobes” so getting these five garments may just a simpler matter of reprioritising the next purchase that having to start from scratch. Buy the best you can – if you have the money to have made for measure or bespoke done for you these will look better and last far longer than an off the peg. If you only have the money for one made to measure or bespoke item, Tony, Erlend and Susannah all agree to get one suit done first – it is such an important garment, invariably worn when you need to make a statement. Should you only have the budget for off the peg, try to ensure you have also saved enough money to afford good alterations – a sleeve, trouser hem at the correct length or the drape across the shoulder blades pulled in by a quarter of an inch can make all the difference to the silhouette – and the confidence of the wearer.
And there we are……. Your first wardrobe conundrum of 2016 solved. According to the PM, perhaps the Leader of the Opposition should take note… 
Enquiries:
Benson & Clegg, 9 Piccadilly Arcade, Jermyn Street, London. SW1Y 6NH / 0207 4911454 / [email protected] / http://bensonandclegg.com/
Taliare, 5 Seymour Place, London W1H 5BA / 0207 7235100 / [email protected] / www.taliare.com/
Susannah Hall Tailors, 110 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1M 5SA / 0207 2534055 / [email protected] /www.susannahhall.co.uk/