There is a strong whiff of trading off a name and past glories at Brasserie Blanc
Review by Geoffrey Leadwell
Brasserie Blanc Fulham Reach is one of a number of Brasserie Blanc restaurants selling pan European food off the back of the reputation and celebrity of Raymond Blanc (OBE). I have visited only one and yet I may have well have visited them all.
From the hotel lobby decor to the soft rock n pop soundtrack, this place is earnestly inoffensive, lazily executed and dull in approach – as characterless and soulless as the empty showroom flats it is surrounded by on the riverside at Hammersmith. A warm gin martini begins the meal and this is about the most flavoursome thing we eat between us.
The price:quality ratio is not good. A tiny and insipid jar of potted crab and (mainly) avocado with two slices of toast is £10. A slab of thin grey steak complete with gristle and a Little Chef style half raw fried tomato is £21. The small cup of fries (overdone and hollow) are £4. A huge pot of muscles are a more reasonable £14 including chips – but they’re inane to the point where you forget that you’re eating them even as you eat them.
Service is formal, efficient and welcoming – but brisk – and occasionally we feel rushed through our meal. Our waiter is pleasant and friendly throughout, but you feel the corporate hand on his shoulder. He also has a habit of saying “well done” as we finish each course, as though we’re engaged in some sort of challenge.
To finish, we have a soufflé that is perfectly risen but too sweet; identical in flavour to an amoretti biscuit, and a cheeseboard in which the crackers outshine the cheese. A few forlorn apricots are scattered across the plate.
Brasserie Blanc’s new Autumn-Winter food menu is now on offer
Enquiries: Brasserie Blanc Fulham Reach, Goldhurst House, Parr’s Way, Fulham Reach, London W6 9AN / 0208 2375566 / http://brasserieblanc.com/restaurants/fulham-reach/