More Than Meats the Eye
A decidedly less-than-inviting looking burger joint in Chelsea proves to be one of the best burgers around town, at least for now
Review by Izzy Ashton
A burger is a burger is a burger, right? Wrong, so very wrong in fact when it comes to the London burger scene. You’ve got your standalone’s, think Byron, Honest, Patty & Bun; you’ve got your fancier-than-thou’s, think Burger & Lobster, Bob Bob Ricard (albeit for a lobster variety); and of course your vegan/vegetarian variety, see Mildred’s for a rather tasty smoked tofu and lentil version.
So we’ve established something already: Londoners bloody love a burger, whatever the type, wherever the place, whenever the time of day. And there are new joints springing up all over the place. So to stand out amongst the well-known and best-loved places, you’ve got to throw up something a little bit different.
And that’s what BRGR.CO has done at their Chelsea hotspot, bringing burgers to the King’s Road with a bang. A moody, black exterior doesn’t really catch the eye but the decorated plaster-cast cow heads (each uniquely designed by an artist to then be auctioned off to charity) certainly lifted the interior, all bare walls, leather benches and small tables.
Considering we visited midweek, the restaurant was pleasingly busy, with a peaceful hum about the place. We opted for a table to one side, from which we could view the rest of our dining guests – always an enjoyable part of an evening out.
A very friendly waitress took our orders, recommending a delicious red wine and allowing us to settle in to put the world to rights – and oh how much needed to be said in that department – so much so that the food felt like it arrived in a flash.
Both my guest and myself opted for beef burgers, one with bacon and guacamole while the other a classic cheese. Sadly we were too early to try their new limited edition Burns burger, with grilled haggis and an additional fiery twist of whiskey ketchup. But next time, because there will be a next time, you can count on that.
The burgers were served on the sweetest little metal trays, covered in a red checked paper napkin, very Instagram-able and the perfect size to sneak onto our table for two. I decided to stick with what I know and chose the sweet potato fries, while my guest, on a recommendation, went for the Parmesan truffle chips, a modern delicacy if ever I saw one.
The burgers were delicious, not too thin, not too thick, just as Goldilocks would’ve enjoyed her burger. Cooked to perfection, just on the right side of rare, we interrupted our fiercely flowing conversation for long enough to audibly appreciate what we had in front of us. The buns were crispy yet soft, the guacamole subtle yet complimentary. It was, I’m pleased to say, one of the best burgers I’ve eaten around London. And that’s coming from someone whose go-to on any menu would be a burger.
The truffle chips made a tasty change from an original, although they became rather overwhelmingly pungent after a while. The sweet potatoes were as sweet as they were crispy and were devoured with no complaints. With plates clean, figuring it would be rude not to, we shared a warm and fudgy chocolate brownie, a delectable end to the meal.
They say you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover but rarely do we ever listen to that frequently offered bit of advice. But seriously just this once, listen to this advice. Look past the uninviting façade, push open that glass door and prepare to enjoy yourself. You can thank me later. Or maybe I’ll see you in there.