Champagne Jacquart: Cloud 23, Manchester Hilton
For a relatively young Champagne house, Jacquart is producing some rather delicious options
Review by Catherine Fergusson
When the planets align and Champagne Jacquart collides with a perfect twilight view of Manchester and effortlessly chic head winemaker, Floriane Eznack, is on hand to educate you in all things Champagne, what’s not to like?
2016 has seen Cloud 23 become Jacquart’s only British flagship outside of London and with their relatively subtle air of luxury and opulence, it’s hard to think of a more fitting setting for its new abode.
Floriane left Veuve Clicquot in 2011 to join this relatively young Champagne house and was immediately told to ditch the rules and do whatever she wanted with Jacquart’s youthful Champagnes.
She has played around extensively with their style to great effect, heralding their newly released Cuvée Alpha 2010 as her most recent success. Branding the Cuvée Alpha as the beginning of a new adventure, Jacquart believe that they’ve created an “alliance parfaite du Pinot Noir et du Chardonnay,” offering the ultimate balance of finesse and depth. Frankly, I couldn’t have put it better myself.
Controversially for some, the Jacquart team prefer that the Cuvée Alpha is tasted from a large white wine glass, hinting that the traditional flute offers more to the drinker through aesthetics than through taste.
Described by Floriane as her “everyday Champagne,” she cites Jacquart’s signature Brut Mosaïque as the perfect 6 o’clock drink – move over G&T, your work here is done. The aptly-named Mosaïque, is a mosaic of villages, grape varietals and vintage years, resulting in a light, refreshing aperitif, which lingers on your tongue long after the bubbles have gone.
She praised the renaissance of rosé sparkling wines in the UK, US and Europe, particularly among men, but was quick to point out that most Frenchmen have continued to buck the trend. A staple of the British Airway’s First Class drinks cabinet, the Brut Mosaïque rosé packs a surprising punch and stands up well against lightly spiced food. It’s particularly recommended with oriental flavours such as coriander, ginger and lemongrass.
There’s little doubt that the Jacquart team are succeeding in developing a young, fresh image of Champagne. One couldn’t fail to be tickled by their view of a magnum as the perfect vessel for the tipple – allegedly it’s the perfect size for a tête à tête dinner when your dining isn’t drinking. After an evening with them, I certainly felt like I’d learned a thing or two and Brut Mosaïque was firmly at the top of my Christmas party shopping list.
Cloud 23, Beetham Tower, 303 Deansgate, Manchester M3 4LQ / www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/united-kingdom/hilton-manchester-deansgate-MANDGHI/dining/cloud-23.html