Diamonds for Day
It is assumed that jewellery for men – particularly gem-set pieces – should only come out at night. What a waste….!
Article by James Sherwood, courtesy of his Jewellery for Gentlemen website
For Jewellery for Gentlemen’s debut cufflink design we turned to an 18ct yellow gold and white pearl barbell design by Tiffany & Co that has elegance, masculinity and poise. The original concept was to make a dress set with pearl shirt studs to match the links but the client and I decided that we should start with a prototype cufflink and offer the studs made-to-order. I am keen to make jewellery that works hard hence the decision to set each cufflink with a black and a white pearl allowing for two matching options or a mis-match.
We instinctively prefer 18ct yellow gold but wanted an Art Deco mood for our cufflinks hence the decision to set in platinum or 18ct white gold. The batons for the links are unusually long because from past experience lacing them through four buttonholes on each French cuff of a dress shirt is simpler with the extra length. The choice of modern round brilliant diamond accents on each pearl was a consideration that white pearl dress studs would disappear against the shirt without a little flash of brilliance.
I am awfully proud of the result with pearls courtesy of Charlie Baron and the craftsmanship of Lucas Rarities’ in-house goldsmith Joe Cattermole. I wanted the pieces to have weight, gravitas and elegance. I hope you’ll agree mission is accomplished. I cannot wait to put the dress studs into production after Christmas. Evidently jewellery is not a primary purchase for Londoners in January with the blues setting in and taxes due. But it’s a big world out there and Jewellery for Gentlemen is already making friends with clients all over the world.
It is assumed that jewellery for men – particularly gem-set pieces – should only come out at night. I disagree. I think our cufflinks would look super chic with a grey flannel Henry Poole & Co bespoke three-piece. I rather like wearing a stickpin to secure a boutonniere and thoroughly enjoy pieces set with white diamonds amongst other stones. A solitaire diamond stickpin set in yellow gold is really rather dashing with a City suit. Another stunning combination for a lapel pin is 18ct yellow gold scattered with white diamonds.
One of my favourite brooch designs bar none is the Pierre Sterlé woven gold twin leaves irregularly dotted with diamonds. Worn singularly or as twins, the Sterlé brooches are masculine and imperious: all the more so for it being highly unusual to see antique gem-set pieces before dark. The Sterlé brooches look handsome in the Jewellery for Gentlemen book and benefit from being seen. They are in the inventory of Hancocks of London in the Burlington Arcade unless some lucky chap has been gifted them for Christmas 2017.
Jewellery for Gentlemen sales have been as brisk as they have been surprising. I naturally love all the antiques I acquire and the in-house designs. But I must admit to being surprised by the pieces that flew out the door. It appears the more extravagant and gem-set a piece is, the more you like it. This gives me high hopes for a super 2018 for Jewellery for Gentlemen and for you all.