Keep Naan and Curry on
Discreetly and elegantly located in a Chelsea townhouse, Kutir excels itself on mellow and unmistakable flavours served in succulent, rich dishes
Review by Andy Barnham
Kutir, the Sanskrit for ‘cottage’, is a recently opened Indian restaurant just off Sloane Square in London co-founded by Rohit Ghai and Abhi Sangwan. The pair have worked together in previous establishments such as Gymkhana, Bombay Bustle and also Jamavar, the latter gaining a Michelin star in ten months earning Ghai the accolade of being the first Indian chef to win the prestigious award in under a year.
Located in a townhouse, guests are required to ring the door bell to enter and are immediately welcomed by the distinctive smells of Indian cuisine as they step into the hallway. Tables are spread over two floors, with larger rooms on the ground floor including the back room with conservatory style roof allowing natural light, with smaller rooms, more intimate rooms including fire places available for private hire upstairs. Decor throughout draws on the rural landscapes and jungles of India with tigers and elephants on the variety of lush greens.
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Much thought has gone into the house cocktail menu. The focused offerings draw inspiration from Indian flavours and infusions combining to make twists on classics such as the Negroni equivalent called the Nut Khat made of gin, creme de cacao blanc, Kutir vermouth mix and Campari, and the Madhosh, an Old Fashioned, made of plated scotch, brandy, calvados, honey and vermouth rosso.
Kutir’s food features seasonal ingredients with an emphasis on game and seafood with à la carte, set and also tasting, or ‘expedition’ menus, specialising in vegetarian and also game, of six courses for £55 with wine pairings starting at £40. Starters include tandoori chicken with lentils and garlic pickle as well as scotch style eggs with bone marrow, spiced sauce and chur- char paratha. Mains continue this theme with 24hrs lamb shoulder, roganjosh sauce and offal samosa and also guinea fowl biryani with garlic and fried onion.
The desserts include baked yoghurt, Bhappa Doi, infused with rosemary and served with fresh berries as well as mango sorbet where the strong, tart, ‘wake me up’ zestiness is juxtaposed both in regards to flavour and texture with little nuggets of chocolate.
Kutir excels itself on mellow and unmistakable flavours served in succulent, rich dishes. No heavy handed arbitrary flavours in this London Indian townhouse, rather subtle, authentic and meticulously balanced combinations to fall in love with presented to an exceptional standard. If there’s anything to be careful of, ensure you go with a good appetite, you don’t want to miss out.
Enquiries: Kutir, 10 Lincoln Street, Chelsea, London SW3 2TS / 0207 5811144 / https://kutir.co.uk/