Once More Into the Fashion Breech
LFW Autumn Winter 18 threw up its typical mixture of the stylish, offbeat and fun with British brands, once again, on top of their game
Roundup by Donna McCulloch
My London Fashion Week kicked off with the inimitable Debbie Harry via a live feed from NYC at Vin & Omi’s “We are Not Sheep”, to showcase their Ready to Wear collection. This was their first, on schedule, show but was their usual signature spectacle of a show.
Next up was the Xu Zhi presentation, “Who is Jane Morris?” She was, it transpires, Dante Rossetti’s obsession and the Pre-Raphaelite influence was evident throughout this collection and I was particularly taken with the orange pieces. It was off to East London next, for Too Good’s 009 collection, they absolutely win the award for “most smiley models” and the most Instagram-able tea, as we entered we were offered herbal tea with edible flowers which was almost, too good to drink… but drink it I did.
A race across town to Fashion Scout to see Pam Hogg, the queues for this one, were round the block and I was très fortunate to get a seat at this gig. It was packed to the rafters and it did not disappoint. I loved it, it made me whoop, it was all at once whimsical, irreverent and sassy. Oh and I want to wear the green, sequinned number on a daily basis. Plus, being stood next to Yasmin Le Bon in the queue, before sitting, only added to my joy.
A little stroll to Southampton Row was next for the Johnstons of Elgin presentation, this was, hands down, my presentation of the season, it was impeccably curated with beautiful, infinitely, wearable pieces and a bar… never underestimate the restorative powers of an Old Fashioned on a cold, February night.
Saturday brought yet more off schedule shenanigans back at Freemasons’ Hall with the ever consistent, Malan Breton, Jiri Kalfar’s; Return of the Queen with Paulina Porizkova walking the runway and the fabulous Mimi Tran.
Sunday began back at Freemasons’ where they opened up the hall for Apu Jan’s INCREDIBLE show then a scoot back to the BFC for 2 presentations, the first of which; Edeline Lee, the aubergine, moss and scarlet hues in this collection were simply, stunning. The second by Mark Fast was a textural delight. I’ve long been a fan of his luxury knitwear pieces worn by amongst others, Grace Jones and this didn’t disappoint. The day finished back at Fashion Scout, Frow at Starsica, for the Mad King show, this was, one of my favourites and I’m now hugely looking forwards to interviewing the designer, Seungik Lee. The day ended very much on a high with the Rocky Star show and Day 3 was complete.
Monday, rain or should I say train spoiled play… South West Trains take a bow.
Day five and the final day of LFW was a day to remember, not just because The Queen rocked up at Richard Quinn but also saw the, in my view, show of the season, Teatum Jones, Global Womenhood, I am not too embarrassed to admit I shed a wee tear at this one, if any designer has captured the spirt of the women’s movement right now, it’s Teatum.
I finished my LFW season with Jamie Wei Huang, this colourful presentation was both youthful and fun, but ironically in gifting the attendees with a cassette tape miniature bag at the end, I felt ancient at having to explain to my perplexed six year old, exactly what a cassette tape was.