On Saturdays, we brunch
An underground, unlimited Saturday dog friendly bolt hole brunch, a stone’s throw from one of London’s most famous buildings
Article by Andy Barnham
M Victoria Street, located a stone’s throw from London’s Buckingham Palace, has recently tweaked their brunch menu to make it all the more enticing to those hungry after waking from their Saturday weekend lie- in.
Following feedback from customers the Beauty and the Beast menu has been amended to ensure inclusion of breakfast, for example egg based, dishes to differentiate the meal from lunch. The menu, available on Saturdays only (M Victoria Street is closed Sunday) and starting at 11am offers light, Beauty, options such as Spring Green Risotto, Hake, alongside heavier, more substantial Beast plates such as Tomahawk steak and Botswana Rib Eye. Diners are offered two dishes from either side of the menu, and fear not, if you’re worried about crushed by a potential food avalanche, the friendly staff are on hand to advise on the size of the dishes.
Alongside the food the menu comes with unlimited drinks for the 90minute brunch sitting. Listed next to the usual suspects of beer, wine and Prosecco is a selection of cocktails including Bellini, The Godzilla Negroni, the Troll’s Old Fashioned and everyone’s favourite, the Espresso Martini. Generous pourings allow time to enjoy the subtle and light drinks and appreciate the large dining area. Situated underground, M Victoria Street’s main, turquoise blue, dining room is large and spacey and it is easy to forget where you are and the lack of natural light. Surrounding and elevated above the main table area are booths of varying sizes. Roomy if seating two people, even the smaller booths can easily accommodate four while the larger booths can fit up to a dozen guests.
And so to the food. My wife decided on the sashimi to kick off her meal which was accompanied by white soya (which, unlike dark soya, has a subtle, not salty taste), cucumber and aged vinegar. These complementary flavours are wholly suitable with the fresh and chunky fish resulting in a dish that’s not too powerful on the palate with the cucumber a refreshing cleanser and neutraliser. For myself, the avocado and poached eggs. Having read avocado on the menu, I was not expecting it to be puréed, however accompanied with a touch of kale and sitting on two slices of sourdough toast it certainly felt ‘Beauty’.
A break in between courses allows for the glasses to be recharged and note that M Victoria Street is dog friendly. As it turns out the restaurant’s owner has a pooch of his own and is keen to allow guests to bring their loved ones in to eat with them, rather than leave them alone at home. As a result the staff at M Grill are all dog aware with good etiquette and changed the water bowl of the English Bulldog at the adjacent table frequently; the restaurant’s dog friendly policy is 24/7 and not just at brunch.
For our second courses, the Beast menu ticked all the boxes. My wife dived straight into the Ribeye, cooked rare to her exact request; cooked on the outside and hot all the way through. Steak at M Victoria Street arrives wet aged and is then dry aged for 7 additional days, allowing for all the blood to drain from the meat and leave only the marbling. While the restaurant normally recommends their steak to be cooked medium to ensure the appropriate breaking down of the marbling, in this instance their cooking of the meat was perfect.
Listed on the menu only as ‘The Burger’ I awaited my main with a certain amount of trepidation and the tower that arrived before me is a sight to behold. Built with two burger patties it was accompanied with lettuce and tomato, garnished with bacon jam and liquid cheese and topped off with onion rings. I was lost for words as I planed how to tackle the challenge in front of me; I concluded the best method of attack was to start from the top with the rings and work my way down and foundd, unexpectedly, the bacon jam being the star of the show.
For those who have the time and stomach space, there is also a desert menu which includes items such as Deconstructed Red Velvet, White Chocolate Ice Cream and the house recommendation of Snickers; a home made Snickers- esque bar accompanied by salted caramel ice cream on a bed of chocolate sawdust. Definitely a desert for those with a sweet tooth, this is perfect for sharing if you’re after something special to end with.
The presentation of all the dishes was well thought through and, for those who share everything they eat on social media, definitely photo worthy. A five minute walk from London’s Victoria train and underground station, M Victoria Street is central and easy to get to for locals and tourists alike.
Enquiries: M Victoria Street, Zig Zag Building, 74 Victoria St, London SW1E 6SQ/ M Restaurants