Razor Sharp Brunching
An immaculate dining establishment, Sartoria has now added an elegant brunch to its offerings
Review by Rupert Watkins
Nestled between the august tailoring denizens of the Row, Sartoria has long been a draw for an elegant lunch or dinner in the West End. It has a sense of occasion about it; be you after a refined drink at its small bar or an indulgent Italian meal, it is a location certain to provide. Earlier in 2018, the restaurant introduced a Saturday brunch for the first time, complete with a distinctive Southern European twist.
Moving past the marble topped bar into the restaurant, low and comfortable banquettes line the walls. With windows running the length of the establishment, there is a light and airy feel to the space. Thick carpets give a feeling of luxuriousness and discretion and over all the restaurant has an elegant Art Deco feel to it.
Being shown to our table, the quality of the napery and service makes clear there is a pleasing formality and refinement about brunch at Sartoria. Whilst we were perusing the menu, my guest and I decided on a glass of Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial. Should you wish something stronger, one can enjoy your Bloody Mary at the bar or at your table. As well as brunch specific dishes such as Eggs Benedict there are starters and main courses ranging from antipasti and lobster linguini through to roasted turbot; one can mix and match as the fancy takes you.
Inevitably, I was drawn to the fry up. Sartoria’s “Italian Job” gives a pleasing twist to this English staple with Tuscan sausage, grilled polenta and avocado being added to crispy pancetta and fried egg. With a side of light, brioche style toast this dish was delicious – the sausage toothsome and gamey whilst the cannelloni beans in a spicy light tomato sauce were different with a pleasing kick. My guest opted for the Milano, saffron risotto with duck egg and wild mushrooms. The risotto was subtly flavoured and soft boiled duck egg rich and tasty.
With these brunch dishes leaving us pleasantly full, we felt there was little need for other savoury options and moved to the desert menu. As well as a mouth-watering selection of Italian cheeses, there is a well-formed range of traditional gelato and Tiramisu type deserts. Upon being told the two cakes of the day, we both plumbed for them; I ended with a light, nutty and utterly moreish pistachio cake whilst my guest revelled in a dark, moist and wickedly decadent chocolate cake. Both washed down with good espresso.
Throughout the staff are courteous, attentive and clearly well drilled. As well as the main dining area, there are small private dining areas for that family or business brunch – or dinner – ranging from the wine cellar to more substantial spaces. Chatting with our urbane maitre ‘d as we were leaving, he told us since introducing their brunch, the restaurant has seen a large jump in footfall and almost double the covers being filled during the Saturday. I’m not surprised, Sartoria is a rather lovely way to start your weekend in town.
Enquires: Sartoria, 20 Savile Row, Mayfair London W1S 3PR / 0207 5347000 / www.sartoria-restaurant.co.uk/